The stories of Arctic and Antarctic adventurers have always fascinated me. I devoured books about legendary explorers like Amundsen, Cook, and Nobile, but two adventures in particular struck me: those of the Norge and the Dirigible Italia. These incredible aircraft were not just means of transport, but actual flying laboratories designed to tackle the far North, where access by land was impossible.
One day, reading "Eightieth parallel", I learned about the Italian Arctic Base in Ny-Ålesund, a remote town in Svalbard. Discovering that the base is called "Dirigibile Italia" in honor of those historic missions immediately struck me. The book says that the few tourists who come to Ny-Ålesund cannot enter the bases, not even those of their own country.
The "protagonists" of the novel were researchers who arrived in Ny-Ålesund and then left by ship for a scientific mission. Reading about their experiences, I could feel the strong emotion they felt when crossing the threshold of the Italian base. I still vividly remember a passage in which, upon arrival, they were welcomed with a hot coffee, a simple gesture but full of meaning, which anticipated the cold they would face during the imminent departure. That scene inspired me deeply, pushing me to think: why not try it too? So, I started planning my own "action plan".
Determined, I searched for the Arctic station "Dirigibile Italia" on social media. I found their pages on Facebook, Instagram and the Website, and I decided to write to them. I introduced myself, explaining my great passion for the Arctic and the climate studies that I currently carry out, and I shared my desire to visit the base during my upcoming trip to Svalbard. To my great surprise, I received two enthusiastic responses from two different people, who put me in touch with Tessa, the current mission leader at the Italian base at that time.
The excitement was sky-high, and the agitation was starting to be felt. Shortly after, I received a reply from the mission leader, Tessa. Her kindness filled my heart with joy. She was really happy to have received my message and told me that I could go and say hello to the researchers at the base. They would welcome me for a chat and a coffee. I couldn't believe it: I had realized my dream. I was breathless, with the knowledge that I had achieved something I had wanted so much. In the following days, I kept Tessa informed of my departure and arrival in Ny-Ålesund, specifically telling her the departure time of my tour. She gave me an appointment in front of the entrance to the Italian base, explaining the reference points around to reach it comfortably.
On the day of departure, as soon as I got on the boat I spoke to the captain to inform him of my appointment at the Italian Base and he immediately gave me the ok, without imposing any prohibitions. The first thing I saw when I arrived was a cute little head of a seal that emerged from the sea water, who knows, maybe it was there to greet me and wish me a welcome! As soon as we landed, Riky (my adventure companion) and I ran towards the Italian base. We found it right away without too many problems, I immediately took a picture of the sign indicating the name of the base! and immediately after we moved in front of the entrance door and tried to knock several times but no one opened for us 😱 We tried to peek through the windows but we couldn't see anyone present at the base. There were moments of fear, we started to walk along the few streets that make up Ny-Ålesund to see if we met someone we could ask if they could take us to Tessa. We approached the canteen and along the way there was a small group of 3 researchers who were walking, I recognized Tessa there (I had checked her linkedin profile to be able to recognize her visually once she arrived). I tried to call her and she answered with a smile saying: "Here you are! I was waiting for you at the base, but I didn't see any boat coming because it was smaller than I thought!" Evidently, she was used to much larger ships. Luckily, the plan had not gone up in smoke!
Tessa took us to the base and let us in, showing us how their daily life and work in the laboratories were. We entered the living room that also served as a kitchen area and she started making us coffee! At that moment another member of the Italian Staff arrived, who introduced himself as the current IT guy at the base, he was very surprised and happy to see us visiting the base. While we sat on the sofa they explained to us that the rest of the research Staff was out on a mission on the nearby glacier, to do some analysis so we wouldn't be able to see them given the little time that Riky and I had available, about 1 hour and a half, before sailing to Longyearbyen. During the coffee they told us their story, what job they did and how they ended up in Ny-Ålesund then very kindly asked us to tell us who we were and what kind of research we were doing. I have a beautiful memory of the chats we had sitting on that grey sofa, huge and comfortable but above all I remember the emotion I felt that day. Time was flying, and soon it was time to go, while we were leaving Tessa wanted to take us to see the research dishes up close but unfortunately the weather was not on our side and we were unable to go. We said goodbye and thanked her very much for her time and her kindness for making my dream of having welcomed us at the base come true.
In Longyearbyen and Ny-Ålesund there is a “safety zone” that corresponds approximately to the perimeter of the city and is marked by the presence of the famous signs depicting a polar bear. Beyond this area it is forbidden to enter without a rifle. I came across this sign as soon as I arrived in Ny-Ålesund and the next day I encountered it until the end of my trip to Longyearbyen.
OUTSIDE THE VILLAGES YOU NEED TO RIDE WITH A RIFLE
These signs not only warn of the real danger of a possible close encounter with a polar bear, but also establish the obligation to go out armed with a rifle and a flare. The sign shown here warns that, before venturing beyond this perimeter, it is essential to check the functionality of your weapon. To this end, it is necessary to carry out a test shot inside a special tube inserted into the ground. Only after having tested the effectiveness of your weapons, can you cross the area, always maintaining careful vigilance through the telescope and proceeding with extreme caution.
The CNR Dirigibile Italia research station is a multidisciplinary facility that supports numerous national and international research projects. Inaugurated in 1997, it is located in the village of Ny-Ålesund (78°55' N, 11°56' E), on the island of Spitsbergen, in the Svalbard archipelago. The name of the station pays homage to the polar expedition of General Umberto Nobile, which left Ny-Ålesund in 1928 with the Dirigibile Italia.
In the past, the management of the station was entrusted to the Department of Earth System Sciences and Environmental Technologies (DSSTTA), but today it is under the responsibility of the Institute of Polar Sciences. The station participates in the INTERACT and SIOS access programs, providing space and logistical support to researchers from countries that do not have direct access to the Arctic. Furthermore, it is part of the FARO forum, a network of Arctic operators that shares organizational and management experiences.
Today it is a crucial reference point for scientific research in the Arctic. Every year, from March to October, the station hosts numerous monitoring activities and research campaigns, many of which involve scientists from the Institute of Atmospheric Sciences and Climate (ISAC). The "Dirigibile Italia" station and the Artic Strategic Project (ASP) offer a unique opportunity for researchers to develop their skills and explore the complex processes and interactions between the different components of the climate system: atmosphere, cryosphere, lithosphere and hydrosphere.
Next to the Amundsen-Nobile Climate Change Tower (CCT), there is the Gruvebadet Laboratory, dedicated to the analysis of atmospheric aerosols on the ground. This laboratory, operational from March to October, is equipped to measure the chemical, physical and optical properties of aerosols. Here, studies on scattering and absorption, particle size distribution and chemical sampling are carried out, in collaboration with the University of Florence. In addition, the laboratory uses a tethered balloon, in collaboration with the University of Perugia, to vertically profile some physical-chemical characteristics of the atmosphere. Thanks to these facilities and collaborations, the "Dirigibile Italia" station significantly contributes to the understanding of climate processes in the Arctic, providing valuable data for the international scientific community.
Amundsen-Nobile Climate Change Tower (CCT)
Amundsen-Nobile Climate Change Tower [1]
One of the key elements of the station is the Amundsen-Nobile Climate Change Tower (CCT), a 32-meter-high structure that houses a wide range of scientific instruments. This tower allows for detailed analysis of the surface energy balance, the dynamics of the planetary boundary layer (PBL), and the exchange fluxes of heat, momentum, and chemicals between the atmosphere, land, and water.
Structure [1]
Dirigibile Italia is a 323 m² facility, of which 170 m² are used for laboratories and offices, with a capacity to accommodate up to 7 people. The base is operational all year round and offers a range of services to support research activities, including:
Accommodation: 6 beds for staff.
Laboratories: A chemistry lab equipped with a laminar flow hood, precision scale, ultrapure water dispenser, freezer, and more. Spaces for general processing, an electronics and mechanics lab, and a warehouse for storing materials.
Mobility: 3 snowmobiles for winter and spring travel, with carts for transporting materials, as well as overalls, boots, and helmets. For the summer, 3 fat-bikes with carts.
Communication: 5 VHF radios to ensure safety and communication between people in the field.
The Airship Norge
Umberto Nobile was born in 1885 in Lauro, a small town in the province of Avellino, in an Italy that was still strongly agricultural, where the concept of nation was relatively new and the wounds of "brigandage" were still fresh in the collective memory.
The Airship Norge
The 1920s marked a turning point in Nobile's life. In 1926, the engineer from Campania led the Arctic polar flight aboard the airship Norge, together with the famous Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen, with whom his relationship deteriorated shortly after. The Norge was a semi-rigid airship built in Italy under Nobile's direction between 1923 and 1924, initially designated "N1".[2]
A balloon in a world of ice
Amundsen had already attempted, unsuccessfully, to reach the North Pole with two seaplanes in 1925. However, Nobile was convinced that the airship was the ideal means to explore these extreme regions, despite the resistance of the Regia Aeronautica, which preferred to invest in the most modern airplanes. The Norge expedition took place in 1926. The goal was not only to reach the North Pole, but also to demonstrate the capabilities of airships as a safe and efficient means of transportation for polar exploration.
The Flight to the North Pole
Departure: The mission departed on 10 April 1926 from Ciampino, near Rome, by airship bound for Oslo, where it was welcomed with enthusiasm.
Intermediate stops: After Oslo, the Norge headed towards Vadsø, in the far north of Norway, and then towards Ny-Ålesund, in the Svalbard Islands, the final starting point for the polar flight.
The North Pole: On May 12, 1926, the Norge flew over the North Pole, becoming the first aircraft to accomplish this feat. The airship dropped the flags of Norway, Italy and the United States, symbolizing the international collaboration behind this feat.
The End of the Expedition
After flying over the Pole, the Norge continued its journey towards Teller, Alaska. However, the airship suffered damage during the flight, and the expedition ended in a forced landing. Despite this, the venture was a success and represented a milestone in the exploration of the North Pole.
After the success of the Norge expedition in 1926, Nobile decided to undertake a new polar exploration, this time with an entirely Italian team. The financing of the expedition was obtained thanks to a compromise: it would be sponsored by the Royal Italian Geographical Society, with the support of the Regia Aeronautica, which provided the N4 airship. The crew, made up of members of the Royal Navy, the Air Force, the Alpini and Nobile's trusted personnel, undertook an extensive program of scientific research in collaboration with the Navy's Hydrographic Institute [2].
The Airship Italia
The expedition finally left Ciampino on 19 March 1928. After some intermediate stops, the Dirigibile Italia reached King's Bay, located on the island of Spitsbergen, in Svalbard, where today the "Dirigibile Italia" Arctic Base managed by the CNR is located.
The exploration included three flights, all departing and returning to Ny-Ålesund. The first flight, on May 11, was interrupted due to difficult weather conditions. The second flight, on May 15, lasted three days, covering about 4,000 km and carrying out important scientific surveys. [3]
The tragic third flight
On May 23, 1928, the Dirigibile Italia took off with the intention of reaching the North Pole, carrying 16 people. The journey initially went well, reaching the North Pole at 0:24 on May 24. However, the return proved dramatic. The ship faced adverse winds, ice on the propellers, and almost zero visibility. At 10:33 on May 25, the airship crashed into the Arctic ice, leaving ten men, including Nobile, seriously injured and abandoned. [3]
The Red Tent and the rescue
The survivors found refuge in a field tent, which became known as the "Red Tent" due to the color of the fabric that quickly faded. It was not until June 9 that an SOS signal was finally picked up by the support ship Città di Milano. The rescue operation, involving several countries (Italy, France, Norway, Finland, USSR and Germany), took 48 days before all the survivors from Italy and some of the rescuers who had not managed to return to their base were rescued. Nine of the rescuers lost their lives, including Roald Amundsen, whose seaplane, Latham 47, disappeared during the search. [3]
To this day, the wreckage of the airship and the bodies of the missing remain hidden in the icy waters of the Arctic. [3]
Bibliography
[2] Leonardo Parigi, La storia del Dirigibile Italia, 2020: https://www.osservatorioartico.it/la-storia-del-dirigibile-italia/
[3] Diario dal Polo, La spedizione Nobile e i naufraghi della tenda rossa raccontati dall'inviato del Corriere della Sera, Cesco Tomaselli, Editore Nordpress, 2003.